Every major food company now has an organic division. There’s more capital going into organic agriculture than ever before.

Pollan is pointing to the mainstreaming—and partial corporatization—of organic food. The fact that large, conventional food conglomerates create “organic divisions” suggests that consumer demand has made organics too profitable to ignore, drawing significant investment and reshaping supply chains. At the same time, the observation carries an implicit tension common in Pollan’s work: when organics become a major capital opportunity, the movement’s original ecological and small-farm ideals can be diluted by industrial-scale practices, branding, and consolidation. The quote thus reads as both a marker of progress (more acreage and funding for organic methods) and a caution about who controls the organic label and how “organic” is defined in practice.